PALERMO

The first time I came across “bread with ice cream” was on the Greek islands. There it was called an “ice cream sandwich,” and I thought it was a joke. It turned out it wasn’t. Brioche con gelato can be considered one of the Palermitans’ late breakfasts, and sometimes[…]

Today I finally visited the Oratory of San Lorenzo. My main goal was to finally see the replica of Caravaggio’s painting that was stolen in Palermo. Instead, I found myself amazed by the oratory itself. It is so deeply hidden among the city’s narrow streets that, even though I[…]

This is my favorite church in Palermo – San Giuseppe dei Teatini. I simply feel incredibly comfortable there. There is something about the atmosphere of this place that I really love. The Theatines were a Catholic religious order that built this church in the 17th century. One of the[…]

To me, Piazza Politeama stands on the border between two worlds of Palermo. Behind you is the loud city most visitors remember, while ahead begins the elegant, quiet and affluent Libertà district. Different people, different cafés, different shops — a different way of life. The neighborhood grew during Palermo’s[…]

Right at the beginning of Ballarò Market, if you’re entering from the Casa Professa side, there’s a small alley named after one of the most mysterious people ever born in Palermo. In fact, one of the most mysterious figures in Europe of his time. You’ll probably never spot it[…]

Another Palermo legend that adds even more flavor to the art of Sicilian pastry making. In almost every pastry shop window, you’ll find colorful little fruits, vegetables, and even pane ca meusa or an arancina, all made from sweet almond paste. These are Frutta Martorana, named after the monastery[…]

In Italy, almost every city has its own patron saint, and that saint’s feast day is often the most important celebration of the year. In Palermo, that saint is Santa Rosalia. Or, as we affectionately call her, la Santuzza. It’s not easy to translate the word beautifully. It is[…]

The first time someone introduced me to this place, they explained that focaccia here is not the one most people know outside Palermo. This is our local version, the one used to serve meusa. To put it simply, Palermo focaccia is a soft bread roll for sandwiches (forgive the[…]

Once I was invited to the wedding of my Sicilian friends, who were living abroad for work. I wasn’t sure what to give Sicilians who undoubtedly missed home. In the end, I chose two Teste di Moro paintings. At first I wondered if they were just a tourist cliché,[…]

I love fountains and statues. So Palermo gave me a wonderful gift: the Fountain of the Genius of Palermo in Piazza Rivoluzione. It’s elegant, charming, and a little mysterious — just like its story. The Genius is the spirit and symbol of our city. Once, I tried to explain[…]