Stories

The first time I decided to try brioche with gelato, I had absolutely no idea how I was supposed to eat it: with a spoon or by taking a bite, together or separately. Turns out, it’s simple — eat it however you like. And the little ball on top of the brioche, which always reminded me of the knob on a pot lid, is called a tuppo — a woman’s bun.

At the Oratorio di San Lorenzo, I was especially struck by the 17th-century benches — wood inlaid with ivory and mother-of-pearl, with carved legs, each showing a different scene. Then my eye caught a tiny inscription, Hospitalitas — “hospitality” — on one of the ten large sculptures. Each represents a different Christian virtue.

The Theatines had an unusual rule: they were forbidden to own land, earn an income or even beg for alms. They lived entirely on what people chose to give them. If there was no food one day, the monks simply fasted and waited — they called it complete trust in Divine Providence. Saint Cajetan, one of the founders of the order, was particularly strict about following this rule. He later became the patron saint of people looking for work and those facing financial difficulties.

In Piazza Politeama, there’s a small bronze sculpture called “The Homeless”, showing two boys. According to the legend, on a cold winter day they managed to collect a little money — enough either for two worn-out jackets or for a very modest dinner. Unable to choose between warmth and food, they split the money: one ate, the other bought a jacket. The first died from the cold that same night, while the second stayed warm and survived — giving him another chance to find food.

At the very beginning of Ballarò Market, there’s a tiny alley named after one of the most mysterious people ever born in Palermo — Count Cagliostro. A great adventurer, a brilliant con man, an alchemist, a healer, or simply someone who knew how to tell a convincing story.

According to legend, the famous Martorana fruits were born thanks to an empty autumn garden. An important guest was coming, but the monastery’s trees had already lost their fruit, so the nuns made new ones from almonds and honey, painted them and hung them from the branches.

Santa Rosalia, or la Santuzza as we affectionately call her, became the patron saint of Palermo after the plague in the 17th century. According to legend, her remains were found in a cave on Monte Pellegrino, where Rosalia had spent eight years in prayer.

Antica Focacceria San Francesco was the first place to serve Palermo street food in a restaurant setting. About 150 years ago, a court chef was given part of an old palazzo and opened a restaurant serving local Palermo food.