Historic sign of I Cuochini in Palermo

I Cuochini

To this day, every single one of my guests has loved this place. I usually say: “Now we’re going to a rosticceria, where you can try many different kinds of Palermitan street food in small portions — and everything costs €1.”

Many people could stop reading here and go straight there. My personal favorites are the anchovy panzerotti and the crocchette di latte — unforgettable. But I’d still like to share the story that makes this place special to me.

The thing is, this rosticceria (a place where traditional Sicilian takeaway food is sold) is already 200 years old. In fact, it is the oldest surviving rosticceria in Palermo. It is very easy to miss if you don’t know about it, because from the street you can only see a small sign, and it is open only until lunchtime. They didn’t hide on purpose — for three centuries now they have been working in the kitchen located in the inner courtyard of Baron De Stefano’s palace. Originally, the place belonged to two brothers who were cooks. They say that the name I Cuochini means “little cooks” because the brothers were short. This is the most popular local legend.

The special thing about this place is that every snack is served in a small size, and this tradition has been preserved since the day it opened. For me, that’s a huge advantage — you can easily try a little of everything and enjoy the variety. As a reference point, it is on the way from Teatro Massimo, just before Piazza Politeama. The exact address is Via Ruggero Settimo, 68. Walk through the archway and, on your right, you’ll find a tiny gastronomic paradise.