PALERMO

I love cooking, and that’s probably why one of my favorite streets in Palermo is Via Calderai – the Street of the Coppersmiths. The magic of this street can only be understood in the morning, while the artisan workshops are still open. For centuries, the craft of this street[…]

One evening after dinner, a friend from Palermo asked me, “So, dolce now?” To understand the joke, you have to leave dolce in Italian. In English, it simply means “sweet,” but in Italian it also means dessert. At the time, I had only just started living in this sweet[…]

To this day, every single one of my guests has loved this place. I usually say: “Now we’re going to a rosticceria, where you can try many different kinds of Palermitan street food in small portions — and everything costs €1.” Many people could stop reading here and go[…]

To me, Piazza Politeama stands on the border between two worlds of Palermo. Behind you is the loud city most visitors remember, while ahead begins the elegant, quiet and affluent Libertà district. Different people, different cafés, different shops — a different way of life. The neighborhood grew during Palermo’s[…]

To be honest, Casa Professa is not one of my favourite places in Palermo. However, I always recommend seeing it at least once — the rest is a matter of personal taste. In one of the first books I read about Palermo, a local described it with the word[…]

After moving to Palermo, I very quickly filled my home with ceramics: jars for flour and sugar, everyday tableware, serving dishes and baking dishes, jugs and vases. I dreamed of having a ceramic sink and tiled walls on the terrace, but apparently that will have to wait for another[…]

I only discovered these shrimp after I started living in Palermo. After trying them in a restaurant for the first time, I decided to serve red shrimp for my New Year’s dinner. Imagine my shock when I realized they were meant to be eaten raw. Picture this: New Year’s[…]

Right at the beginning of Ballarò Market, if you’re entering from the Casa Professa side, there’s a small alley named after one of the most mysterious people ever born in Palermo. In fact, one of the most mysterious figures in Europe of his time. You’ll probably never spot it[…]

Along Palermo’s waterfront, Foro Italico, stretches the long façade of Palazzo Butera. It is one of the city’s most beautiful and magnificent palaces, closely connected to many of Palermo’s noble families. The palace was heavily damaged during World War II. About ten years ago, however, it was purchased by[…]

Another Palermo legend that adds even more flavor to the art of Sicilian pastry making. In almost every pastry shop window, you’ll find colorful little fruits, vegetables, and even pane ca meusa or an arancina, all made from sweet almond paste. These are Frutta Martorana, named after the monastery[…]