Today I finally visited the Oratory of San Lorenzo. My main goal was to finally see the replica of Caravaggio’s painting that was stolen in Palermo. Instead, I found myself amazed by the oratory itself. It is so deeply hidden among the city’s narrow streets that, even though I know Palermo quite well, it took me quite a while to find it. But thanks to that, I was lucky enough to have the place entirely to myself.
Caravaggio held my attention only briefly. A replica is a replica, and in the case of Caravaggio, that is particularly obvious. But I stayed in the oratory’s small room for about twenty minutes, admiring art that I had undeservedly overlooked.
The first thing that strikes you is the work of the sculptor. The walls depict stories from the lives of saints, and some of these scenes are created as separate little figures within the overall composition. Considering how small the room is, it is very impressive.
The second thing that completely won me over was the benches. Wood inlaid with ivory and mother-of-pearl, and carved legs, each depicting a separate scene — a magnificent 17th-century work preserved in remarkable condition.
The third thing that caught my attention was a series of large individual sculptures with tiny inscriptions that are easy to miss. My eye stopped on the word Hospitalitas — hospitality. There are ten statues in total, each representing one of the Christian virtues: Hospitalitas — hospitality; Penitenza — penance; Costanza — steadfastness; Umiltà — humility; Fede — faith; Carità — charity and mercy; Misericordia — compassion; Elemosina — almsgiving; Verità — truth; and Gloria — glory.
It is said that one of the brotherhood’s duties was to help bury the poor. If a poor person died, the brotherhood took responsibility for accompanying them on their final journey according to Christian tradition and ensuring a dignified burial. This burial work was an expression of hospitality towards those who had no one to help them after death.
Carità (charity and mercy) and Hospitalitas (hospitality) are the two central figures of the oratory.