If you like exploring cities on foot, Palermo is a very comfortable place to be. We have a metro / train, buses, and trams. For most visitors, the first two are all you’ll need.
If you decide to venture beyond the historic center, Google Maps will usually suggest the best route using public transport. Bus schedules within the city are sometimes surprisingly accurate, but I still wouldn’t rely on them 100%.
It’s best to board the bus with your ticket already in hand. Yes, on some routes there are ticket inspectors who also sell tickets, but only locals really know which buses those are. Before your trip, simply stop by one of the many tabacchi (tobacco shops) around the city — that’s where bus tickets are sold.
I recommend buying both your outbound and return tickets at the same time. Do they fine passengers without tickets? Yes. I’ve personally seen tourists asked to show their documents and escorted off the bus so the fine could be issued.
If you’re planning to travel by train, there are several ways to buy a ticket.
- At the station ticket office or ticket machines.
- Through the Trenitalia or Trainline app.
- Using the Tap&Tap system.
Tap&Tap has both advantages and disadvantages. On the one hand, it’s incredibly convenient. Simply tap your bank card, phone, or smartwatch on the small green validator when entering the station and again when leaving it. The system records your journey and automatically charges your card the next day.
One card equals one ticket.
If a ticket inspector comes by, they’ll help you confirm that you’ve started your journey correctly. However, if you forget to tap out when you leave the station, the system will charge you for the longest possible journey on that line. For example, if you’re travelling to Palermo, the line continues all the way to Messina, so instead of paying around €2, you could end up paying €37.
I really like this system, but I’m gradually giving it up. Forgetting to tap out once is one thing, but I’ve also had two occasions when the system itself wasn’t working. Even though I live here and know exactly what needs to be done afterwards, I still have to pay the €37 first and then wait about a month to see whether the money will be refunded.
I definitely wouldn’t recommend this option to tourists. For now, I’ve gone back to buying my train tickets through the app.
The third way to travel is by intercity bus. Here, Google Maps is usually accurate to within about 15 minutes, but for the exact timetable it’s best to check either at the ticket office or in the transport company’s app.
Palermo’s main bus station is located right next to the central railway station, and that’s where you’ll find the ticket offices as well. Before I learned which company serves which destination, I used to check the departures board, find my destination and the name of the bus company, and then go to the corresponding ticket office. While I was there, I’d also ask about the return timetable.
Can you buy a ticket directly from the driver? Sometimes, yes. But that’s really a last resort. It’s much better to have your ticket before boarding the bus.